A Jolly and Eccentric Journey

They say the grass is always greener on the other side. Perhaps this is what led us on a tour of Michigan breweries. Or perhaps it was just wanting to visit the origins of some of our favorite beers. I took off with my friend Ryan early on a Friday morning, driving around the southern tip of Lake Michigan into the Michigan with plans to have lunch at the Eccentric Cafe.

This wasn't the first trip to the Bell's beer tap room for either of us. Once we arrived we we're reminded of how great the Eccentric Cafe really is; with an excellent food menu and an even more tempting beer menu, not to mention a curious atmosphere with various flags, signs and maps adorning the walls. We each had a sandwich and shared sampler (set up on a Michigan-shaped board) of Bell's beers. My curried chicken salad sandwich was delicious. We picked six beers for our sampler. These included a cherry wheat, a strong honey wheat, a light and tangy wheat, Kalamazoo's famous Two Hearted Ale, a winter specialty called Best Brown and a Smoked Stout.

After noshing, sipping and listening to some Springsteen and Clash we decided to head west to the destination that we were really looking forward to, Jolly Pumpkin Artisanal Ales in Dexter, Michigan. I've wanted to visit Jolly Pumpkin ever since I tried their beer and heard about their means of production. Brewer "Captain Spooky Ron J" makes some of the most interesting and flavorful beers I've ever tasted. My first Jolly Pumpkin beer was the La Roja. I was struck by the multitude of flavors, the tartness and the carbonation. I haven't had this beer in awhile but my Beer Advocate review seems to jibe with my memory. A great deal of what makes Jeffries' beers so beguiling is the brewing process that he has adopted which comprises open fermentation and aging in various wood barrels. On the particular autumn day that we visited the brewery, we were greeted by the brewery's General Director Laurie Jeffries. Jolly Pumpkin is a friendly place and Jeffries eagerly gave us a tour around the small brewery. Once she was situated back behind the brewery's small bar she was ready with a flight of Jolly Pumpkin ales including Bam Biere, Bam Noire, Oro de Calabaza, La Parcela and the autumnal ale Fuego del Otono. We tasted the La Parcela, a pumpkin ale, first. Laurie says that at first the brewery had no intention of producing a pumpkin beer, but after several years they decided to try it out. The result is delicious. Lots of traditional pumpkin beer spices are present La Parcela, but a bit of chocolate emerges and the beer finishes tart. La Parcela basically refers to a garden patch, a place I suppose where pumpkins grow. This is an extremely rare beer and was not for sale. The next beer we tasted was the Fuego del Otono, which is made with chestnuts. I took some of this one home with me. The Fuego was an amber-orange hue with a delicous combination of bruised apples, spices and, well, chestnuts. The chestnut flavor could really bother some people but I kind of liked it. Again, a tartness shows up towards the finish, but not in an over-powering way. I believe the next beer we had was the Oro de Calabaza, a golden ale which nearly shot out of the bottle. This is the case with many of Jolly Pumpkin's beers, as the some of the wild yeasts keep working slowly in the bottle, building up a large amount of carbonation. The Calabaza was a very delicious, very effervescent golden ale with a mix of citrus aroma and flavors, an earthy-woody yeastiness and some tart funkiness in the dry finish. Such a dry finish makes the Calabaza quaffable, but at a danger to one's sobriety. This is not the case with the Bam Noire, a dark version of Bam Biere, and a low alcohol (4.5 percent by volume) bottle conditioned (but not barrel aged) ale. I appreciated this beer because it presented a decent a nice mix of delicate roastiness and chocolate flavors with the yeasty funk of some of the other Jolly beers without the high alcohol. That said, I've had the "regular" Bam Biere before and I think I prefer it's complexity and tart character over the Bam Noire. I wish had picked up a few more bottles at Jolly Pumpkin. The pricing was favorable compared to the $10-$11 that I pay in my own neck of the woods, but be forewarned if you visit: the brewery only takes cash or check.

After visiting Jolly Pumpkin we made our way back west towards Chicago; but we still had a handful of places to visit. As impressed as I am with Ron Jeffries' beers I didn't travel almost all the way across the state of Michigan for his beer. No, me and Ryan had plans to visit the Battle Creek home of some the best English-style beers on this side of the Atlantic. We drove about an hour west on I-94 to Battle Creek, but not before dropping some of our staff in Marshall at a Hampton Inn just off the expressway. We other plans in store for Marshall other spending a night in one of its hotels, but that was later. For now, we were hungry. We heard that Arcadia Brewing Company in downtown Battle Creek had some decent South Carolina-style BBQ and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. This sounded good. We already knew that Arcadia made some good interpretations of English-style ales such as pale ales, porter and IPA. Once we arrived at Arcadia we had to wait a half hour or so for a table, but the food was worth it. Ryan had a BBQ platter that included chicken, pork and beef along with a massive side order of baked squash. I couldn't make up mind as to whether I wanted BBQ or pizza, so I got A BBQ chicken pizza. I had an IPA at the bar as an apertif and that last me through dinner. Ryan opted for the Angler's Ale, while I stayed with the IPA. We both had a lot of food. Arcadia is a big place with sort of the feel of a warehouse. This aspect is possibly fueled by the idea that the brewery and bottling operatrions are in the same building as the pub. It was interesting to watch through the windows of the pub into the brewery. Although there was no brewing going on, it was cool to see the Peter Austin brewing system. I learned about this system in a great article written by Matt Dunn. In fact, his article was part of inspiration for making our trip to Michigan. It would've been nice to visit with some of the staff of the brewery as Matt did, but we were happy to just see the place that crafts the beer we enjoy back in Chicago. I think I would've preferred to taste a little more of Arcadia beer, but we were hungry...and, well, ya gotta eat!

Taking a Dark (Horse) Turn

After unwisely stuffing ourselves at Arcadia, we snaked through downtown Battle Creek back to I-94 to visit the Dark Horse Brewery Tap Room. I was pretty geared up about this place. Reading up about it online it seemed like a pretty rough and tumble place. A bit of a biker-inspired joint. Sure enough, this brewery "complex" included a Wacky Shack liquor store in front, a tattoo parlor and general store off to the side, and then of course, the brewery tap room. This was no fancy affair. The Tap Room, attached to the Wacky Shack, was itself a shack. A rockin' shack. Yeah, you might be thinking of that B-52s song by now, but this was no "Love Shack" but a raucous hard drinkin' kinda place (without the hard liquor.) Everybody was drinking beer and just Dark Horse beer. I didn't see anyone drinking anything else other than beer -- not even water. I was happy that so many people in Marshall we're so enthusiastically supporting their local brewery. We seemed to arrive at Dark Horse at the height of the festivities. There was much conviviality in the small room, with hundreds of rather artistic mugs dangling from the ceiling and the walls. It's a bit hard to describe. I saw a picture of the place on the Internet and it seemed completely different than the picture when I was there. Perhaps it was because the place was full of drunks. Nah, that's not fair, there were only a few drunks and they seemed to have friends to take them home who were highly tolerant of their lack of sobriety.

The last thing I needed at Dark Horse was food (after stuffing ourselves at Arcadia), but there in black and white on a chalkboard hanging over the bar were the words: House Smoked Cashews. At four bucks, I couldn't resist. What better accompaniment for the Oatmeal Stout that the friendly bartender was pouring for me. The stout went down pretty smooth and was followed by a Crooked Tree IPA which took forever to drink. I feel like I'm still drinking it now, and I am, but it's a bottle I've picked up since my visit. My bottle of this beer that I sip as I write this is going down much smoother than it was at the Dark Horse Tap Room. It even seems a bit lackluster. Hopheads shouldn't judge Crooked Tree until they've had it at the source. A buzz saw of fresh hops sliced across my palate with each sip of this beer. On the other end of the spectrum, was the Perkulator Dopplebock which Ryan, my partner in wandering through Wolverine-state beer culture, was very content sipping. I've never thought of adding coffee to a a bock beer, but it's a great mix of flavors.

The atmosphere at Dark Horse was lively, but also insular. We didn't make any friends as the patrons seemed consumed in their own drinking and in their own cliques. The staff was friendly though, so we didn't feel totally lost. Also, contact with others in the Dark Horse Tap Room can't be avoided: a couple times I ended up volunteering to grab someone's mug hanging from the ceiling instead of them trying to reach over me. This small act of helping someone find their mug made me feel at least a little bit like a regular. The mug club and its members is a pervading theme of Dark Horse that makes it unique. I'm told that people sometimes leave each other message in the mugs like little ceramic mailboxes. I also liked the cozy settlement-like nature of the brewery complex complete with general store (selling Dark Horse merchandise and homebrewing supplies), which was unfortunately closed when we were there. We did stop in the Wacky Shack, but the prices seemed a little steep. The beer garden looked fantastic, too, but it was a bit cold (snow flakes flying) for that when we were there. Also, there is a more expanded food menu than just House Smoked Cashews. I just love nuts.

Ryan and Erika's Excellent East Coast Adventure

Philadelphia, PA and Boston, MA., in addition to all the wonderful historical and cultural charms, each have a celebrated beer history and a vibrant modern brewing culture that is not to be missed for an American beer lover. So, while Erika and I perused two of our country's finest cities, taking in sights such as Valley Forge, Eastern State Penitentiary, the Freedom Trail and snapping up photos of humpback whales in their natural, Atlantic Ocean feeding habitat, we darn well made time to relax with some cool barley-based refreshments on this wonderful trip. Let's explore.

Upon arriving in Philadelphia, a city that both of us had previously been to (but not together), we were thankful to have a couple of friends who were taking us in for a few days at their place in nearby Royersford. Yes, it may be a little "unorthodox" to stay with friends on our honeymoon, but a) we were on a budget!, b) those same friends couldn't attend our wedding in Chicago, c) we were going to have the majority of our honeymoon alone, and d) they stocked their fridge with cold, wonderful Yuengling Lager! Yes, Michael and Drew were gracious friends and hosts. Once we got to their home, the immediately offered us some cold Yuengling beer. Not wanting to be rude, of course I reached for one! (Disclaimer: Erika's not much of a beer drinker, but there were beers on this trip that she enjoyed. We'll get to that later.).

The Yuengling Brewery, located in nearby Pottsville, PA, is the oldest continually operating brewery in the U.S. Founded in 1829 by German immigrants and run by the fifth-generation owner, Richard Yuengling, this brewery thrives in Pennsylvania, as well as 10 other states in the eastern U.S. They have been quite successful for nearly 200 years - no small feat, especially given the Prohibition era and competition from mega-breweries - and continue to turn out great product. Although their portfolio is extensive, I was extremely satisfied with drinking their flagship product, Yuengling Lager, on this trip at our friends' home. Michael and Drew are also fantastic cooks and some of the spicy creations they whipped up for us paired nicely with the crisp, lightly sweet malt finish that Yuengling Lager imparts.

After a full day of "site-seeing" on our second day, which included lunch at Reading Terminal Market, a leisurely stroll up the Ben Franklin Parkway (Philadelphia's Champs Elysees), and a hair-raising and though-provoking excursion through the bowels of the infamous Eastern State Penitentiary, we decided to pop in to one of the city's most justifiably celebrated beer bars: Monk's Cafe. This outstanding gem of a bar, which has been in business since about the mid-1980s, specializes in Belgian beer and cuisine. These folks take it seriously, serving mussels prepared about 15 different ways, all cooked with selective Belgian beers, all the while giving the customer a relaxed environment with a true feel of what a Belgian cafe must be like: a small bar up front, wood booths in back, convivial conversation, wonderful smells coming from the kitchen...it all added up to a most memorable experience here. Although the four of us tried many different tap beers, of note I enjoyed the "Monk's Cafe Flemish Sour Ale" and the "Moinette Bruin" the best. The Flemish ale is actually brewed in Belgium, then exported to the U.S. for distribution. Erika enjoyed the 3 or 4 beers she tried, but especially the genius subtleties of the Cantillon Gueze. I highly recommend to any beer lover who has the good fortune to land in Philadelphia to seek out Monk's Cafe. There is a reason that the late, great beer writer, Michael Jackson, rated this bar as his "favorite bar in America".

Bidding farewell to Michael and Drew after not quite two full days in the City Of Brotherly Love, we hopped a train for our next destination: Boston, MA. Settling into a quaint hotel in the Back Bay neighborhood, which is an excellent location to explore downtown Boston, Erika and I pretty much hit the ground running in Bean Town. Neither of us had been here before, so we were eager and anxious to get out and see the city.

Boston is such a wonderful walking city; a good pair of sneakers, a good map (Boston's streets meander in every snaking direction possible), and great weather made this such a delightful place to explore. From the Freedom Trail, which is essentially a 2.5 mile urban trail through the city that highlights seminal events and sites in American history (Boston Massacre site, Bunker Hill Monument, ancient graveyards, etc.), to the beautiful Charles River riverwalk, to the magnificent park at Boston Common, this truly is an American classic. Of course, with sites this spectacular there must surely be good beer here, right? We were not let down!

Erika made me promise her that we would have a lobster dinner while in Boston (what self-respecting American wouldn't?), so she didn't have to twist my arm to tightly. One of our grandest, yet most unassuming, meals we had on the trip was at a place called, literally, No Name Restaurant right on Long Wharf. Somewhat off the beaten path, this little diamond in the rough set us up with a delicious lobster meal and fixin's, and I had a great local beer to go with my meal: Harpoon IPA. The Harpoon Brewery, a Boston mainstay, has been turning out great beer now for 22 years now. Located a stone's throw from our restaurant, I was getting quite a fresh product. The India Pale Ale, modeled in the English-style, was a wonderful beer to pair with my dinner. Unlike many IPAs produced in the U.S., which tend to be very, very hoppy and boozy, the Harpoon version was a relatively low alcohol (5.9%abv) affair, and clocked in at only 42 IBUs. However, it lacked not at all for a tasty and stylish beer, with a nice malt/hop balance throught the product.

Amidst a whale-watching excursion we took 30 miles out into the Atlantic, and a cool and funky side-trip up to Salem, MA (to hang with the witches), I couldn't help but ponder what the beer event I'd purchased tickets for prior to arriving in Boston would be like: Beer Summit's Octoberfest. Wow, what a fest it was! Essentially sponsored by the Boston Beer Company (aka Samuel Adams) and with proceeds going to help a local charity, this really was a great event. This event not only wonderful Sam Adams beers on tap (many of which can't be found in Chicago), but also fun entertainment, including an "oompah band", caricature painting, prize giveaways, good German food and an enthusiastic crowd! Of note, I enjoyed the Sam Adams Helles and the Smoked Dunkelweizen. Erika enjoyed the Cherry Wheat, too.

Ryan with Jim Koch

The Octoberfest was held in "The Castle", which is a downtown event site adjacent to a large hotel. It certainly looks like a castle inside and out, which added to the aesthetic charm of the entire event. But, for me anyways, the real treat of the evening was meeting a guy who basically took craft beer and brought it to America at large: Jim Koch, founder and president of the Boston Beer Company. Starting with his flagship beer in 1985, Samuel Adams Lager, this company arguably showed America that there is more to beer than cheap adjunct filler, which makes up most of the contents of mainstream American swill, and instead took brewing back to its traditional roots, using basic, honest ingredients: water, barley, hops and yeast. Jim used a recipe that he discovered in his parents' attic, from a time in the 1800s when his German immigrant grandfather was a brewer in Boston. Leaving the corporate world behind, Jim began to brew in the mid-1980s, and America has not been the same since. So, on this occasion I was understandably in awe when Erika suggested that I meet him, shake his hand, and she wanted to take our picture together. Jim's an easy-going, soft-spoken guy who just likes to hang out with friends, known or otherwise, and talk and drink good beer. Pure and simple. It was just one of those moments. I wish I could've thought of something more brilliant to say, but instead I was almost in an "Aw, shucks" mode. Jim was quite gracious, wished Erika and I well on our honeymoon and our marriage, and posed with beer in hand with me.
The event was held early enough in the evening that Erika and I decided to head out and explore Boston a bit more on our last evening. She had said to me that we hadn't hit a brewpub at all on the trip and that, for my sake anway, we should make a point to! Well, I also hadn't seen Fenway Park, so we killed two birds with one stone for our last round-up: we headed to the Boston Beer Works in South End, which is basically across the street from Fenway.
Boston Beer Works is huge, multi-level brewpub, and was nearly packed when we arrived that Friday evening. Still, we found two empty chairs at the back bar, and sat down for a bit. Erika was "beer'd out", but wanted some clam chowder (which rocked), and I decided to do a four-beer sample. The BBW delivered some pretty good stuff, notably the Bay State ESB (another good English-style bitter) and the Vanilla Bean Stout (finally! I got some dessert!). Although the BBW definitely caters to the Red Sox and yuppy crowds, and the fact that there's nothing intimate about it (it was quite loud), it does make some pretty tasty stuff, both beer and clam chowdah! It was also a added bonus to walk around Fenway Park afterwards, and admire a very old, and very classic baseball field. The Sox were out of town that evening, so although we couldn't grasp the full effect of that neighborhood at gametime, it was a delight nonetheless to just meander around this neighborhood.

We bid adieu to Boston next morning, headed back to Philly via the train and arrived at a historically beautiful B&B called "Thomas Bond House" in the midst of the Eastern Seaboard remnants of Hurricane Hanna. We hunkered down in our fantastic bedroom for the evening with a bottle of chianti and for some...*ahem*...alone time. Mother Nature compelled us to relax in our room for the final evening of a fun, if slightly hectic, trip across the mid-Atlantic and New England. We reflected on the great people, food, drink, culture and history we explored in the previous week. We certainly want to return again someday to these great cities and explore further.


Ryan and Erika Morrison, September 2008

Les Brasseurs de la Quebec

   My ancestors on my dad's side of the family are from Quebec, so for a long time I've wanted to visit the Canadian province. My interest in French Canada goes back to when I was in high school, where I studied the French language for two years. Last month, I dusted off my French books and headed to Quebec City, where I spent roughly five days exploring the narrow, hilly streets of the nearly 400-year-old city with my wife Carol.
   Quebec is a very old city by North American standards; the oldest part of town, the walled city (the last remaining in North America) was where we explored the most, walking the sometimes cobblestone streets for hours until our calves hurt. Our starting point each morning on these walks was our hotel, the wonderful Hotel des Coutellier. One of the reasons I picked this hotel was because it was connected to Moss, a Belgian Bistro that prides itself in serving mussels 14 ways. The hotel was very comfortable (it helped that breakfast was waiting for us in a picnic basket outside our door each morning) and Moss did indeed have some tasty mussels.

   We only had dinner once at Moss, as it was a little pricey. (Our bill was about $70, but included some really fabulous Belgian chocolate desserts and a couple drinks.) I had mussels with butter and basil, steamed with Stella Artois lager. This price of the dish included the beer; served in its own glass. I didn't realize at first that each of the 14 different mussels dishes at Môss included a beer pairing. Some of the mussels came with a Duvel, others with a Leffe, etc. What a fantastic concept, I thought. The mussels were served as they would be in Belgium in there own pot with some frites (fries). Carol had the French version of pepper steak and that was rather good, too.
   I would've had more than one beer at Moss, but I had already quaffed a couple pints at the Thomas Dunn Pub across the Gare de Palais train and bus station. This pub, with a large sidewalk café out front, seemed to specialize in Canadian beers and English beers on tap along with a rather large bottle selection. My first pint was a St. Ambroise Cream Ale. This was a very tasty Imperial-sized pint, with a dense creamy nitrogen enhanced head. For a cream ale, the St. Ambroise had a nice bitter hop accent. As tasty as this pint was, I wasn't satisfied and I had another stronger pint sort of by accident. All the pours at the Thomas Dunn come in small, medium or large (written in French in the menu). I ordered a medium of a Belgian beer called Lucifer, not knowing it would be a rather large serving for such as strong beer. The medium ended up being an Imperial pint and the 9.5 percent alcohol content by volume went to my head. Oh, well...at least I wasn't driving. In fact, that was one of the best things about visiting Québec -- not driving, but walking everywhere.
   Another pub that I found that was highly recommended to visit was the Pub St-Alexandre. This pub was found along a rather trendy strip of Rue St. Jean (still in the old city). The beer selection at this pub was quite good and great care was taken with the serving of the beer. We just had one rather expensive round at the pub, a Leffe Brune and a McAuslan Stout. I had the stout and it was probably one of the best pints of stout I've ever had, worth the $7. Carol's Leffe Brune was quite good, too. It was served at the right temperature, in the right glass, and even with a little Leffe doily around the stem. Lovely. Unfortunately, the pub was a little too American in terms of the crowd and the music (yes, I know I'm from the U.S.) and we wanted more of a local feel. The place made us feel like we were hanging out in Lincoln Park. That said, the Pub St-Alexandre is a cool pub with lots of breweriana and old bottles of beer to look at behind the bar. The coolest piece of breweriana I spotted was an emptly three-liter bottle of La Fin du Monde. Coincidentally, La Fin du Monde, one of the excellent beers from Quebec brewer Unibroue, was available at the Depanneur (convenience store) across the street from our hotel. The Unibroue beers are certainly the best Quebecois beers that I came across, which makes me happy, because they're pretty ubiquitous around the Chicago area, where I live.
   Before the trip I identified two brewpubs in Quebec City that I wanted to visit (the only two brewpubs, actually). The first one I visited was L'Inox. This brewpub had a good selection of beers ranging from blonde ales, to reds, to wheats. The best beer in the sampler that we tried was a bitter. It was worthy of a full pint. In the early evening on a weekday, L'Inox was fairly quiet. There was interesting art on the walls and the place seemed cozy enough. Nobody was using the pool tables in the adjacent room, the music was turned down, but the chilled vibe fit us just fine. I've heard that L'Inox can get quite busy and pretty noisy later at night and on weekend.
   Part of our last evening in Quebec included a stop at La Barberie. I guess we saved the best for last. I really enjoyed this little place. A bit difficult to find in the Saint-Roche District, the brewers (or shall I say brasseurs) at La Barberie are indeed artisans making some interesting fruit and spice beers among others. All of the beers in our eight beer carousel sampler had a consistent house character, a sort of mineral component, almost akin to terroir in wine. Both the beers at La Barberie and L'Inox struck a balance between the malt and hops that presented the malt first and hops later in the finish or in the middle -- except for maybe for the American pale ale at La Barberie. We sat at the end of the bar here opposite the handcarved Viking-inspired wooden tap handles on the wall, with what handmade earthenware pitchers hanging from the ceiling -- very Brueghel if ask me. Somehow, the environment at La Barberie spawned more interesting conversation. I liked both places -- L'Inox and La Barberie -- but I saw more of myself and my kind of brewer at La Barberie. The only drawback at La Barberie is that there is no food, except for some gumball machines that dispense nuts (we also found these machines at L'Inox; must be a cultural thing).
   As far as Quebec craft breweries go, Unibroue at McAuslan are the leaders. Many of the sidewalk cafés sported Unibroue patio umbrellas; it seemed like the most favored brand of beer for the bistros. I did run across a red ale I hadn't heard of from Les Brasseurs des Nord called Boreale Rousse (think Bass Ale) at a small diner in the antiques district not far from our hotel. The cozy, bordering on cramped, Buffet de L'Antiquaire offered excellent Québecois comfort food. Our meals there included such regional favorites as Poutine; a combination of fries, white cheddar cheese curds and gravy. The food here was pretty cheap and not to be missed. The place is popluar though, so be prepared to wait.
   One final note and a rather curious aspect of Canadian beer culture. It seemed the use of the term IPA is used by some brewers as some type of marketing term and not a reflection of the style of beer. I picked up a couple of beers at the local Depanneur that were labeled IPA, but utterly lacked any hop character or complexity. They tasted more like rather bland lagers with just the tiniest hint of complexity. The Alexander Keith's IPA from Halifax was a prime example; a decent enough light ale I suppose, but no hop real hop bitterness or flavor -- the ingredient isn't even mentioned on the label -- I guess that was an early warning sign!
   One very last thing: it may seem obvious, but if you travel to Quebec, be prepared to speak and read some French. It will make your trip much easier and you will gain more respect from the locals. English is spoken, but it is the second the language and all street signs, restaurant menus, etc., are en Francais.

What:
A snappy pint of bitter at L'Inox with complimentary chips or a tasty European hot dog stuffed in a baguette if the chips don't do it for you.
Where:
37 Quai St. Andre
Vieux-Port de Quebec, Quebec, Canada
phone: (418) 692-2877

What:
A visit to La Barberie, a co-op brewery and home of unique artisanal ales.
Where:
310 Rue St. Roch
Quebec City, Quebec, Canada

What:
The Pub St-Alexandre and well cared for drafts served in the appropriate glassware.
Where:
1087 St-Jean
Quebec City, Quebec, Canada

What:
A visit to Thomas Dunn Pub and tasty pints of St. Ambroise.
Where:
369 Rue Saint-Paul
Quebec City, Quebec, Canada
phone: (418) 692-4636

What:
Dinner at Moss (adjacent to the Hotel des Coutellier) and mussels 14 ways.
Where:
255, Rue Saint-Paul
Quebec City, Quebec, Canada